Madurai

This morning I arrived in Madurai, quintessential South Indian city, and an ancient city at that. I suspected it might be oppressively hot since it's so far south and a good deal inland, but it's not bad.

Madurai is known now for have one of the largest temple complexes in the south, with some massive towers at each entrance, each of which is covered in carvings which have been painted to their original colors. I haven't been inside yet because I was wearing shorts (apparently not allowed), and I'm also not allowed into the actual temple (non-Hindus are not allowed), but I'll be going tomorrow.

The rest of the city I've explored so far is like the book describes the south: more relaxed, cheaper, cleaner and more educated. It's hard to say about educated, but the rest seems to be true. My banana leaf meal (it turns out there was more to it, including yogurt, dal - lentil soup - and sambar - traditional southern soup served with pretty much everything here) was only 70 cents (same as Chennai) and this internet is only 15 rupees per hour, the cheapest I've found in India thus far. You can also get a dress shirt for about a dollar, or they'll reproduce your clothes for super cheap as well.

The salesman and rickshaw drivers seem to be a little less intense as well, so it's been nice.

I booked some more trains. I'll be going after Madurai to Kochi, an ocean-side city in Kerala, the southern-most state on the subcontinent, then up to Gokarna, a little beach town with bamboo huts and supposedly unspoiled beaches. After that (I don't have this part booked) I'll go to Palolem, in Goa, then to Hampi, then to a couple sets of caves carved into the rocks, and at last back to Delhi for my flight.